Monument to Goya in the Garden of the Prado Museum in Madrid

Discovering Goya in Madrid

Madrid

Following in the footsteps of Francisco de Goya means discovering the work of one of the best-known Spanish painters in history. It means embarking on a journey of discovery of a unique, revolutionary and groundbreaking painter and being mesmerised by the beauty of “The Naked Maja”, by the story of “The Third of May” and by the terror of the “Black Paintings”. Did you know that all these works can be found in Madrid? Although Goya was born in Fuendetodos (Zaragoza), his life was closely linked to the capital city of Spain, and he is one of the artists who created some of the best portraits of the city. If you are planning a trip to Madrid and are interested in discovering his main paintings and the locations associated with his life, here you will find several recommendations of places to visit:

Settings in Madrid linked to Goya's life

The Aragonese painter arrived in Madrid in 1775 as a cartoonist in the Royal Tapestry Factory, where he worked for 12 years. Today, carpets and tapestries continue to be produced and restored from this unique place. You can book a guided tour, which takes you to the historic tapestry and carpet manufacturing workshops where you can admire their craftsmanship.During his stay in Madrid, Goya portrayed representatives of the nobility and important authors of the Enlightenment. In order to imagine the atmosphere of the time you can go to the El Capricho Park (in Alameda de Osuna, on the outskirts of the city), a charming recreational villa with beautiful gardens that were a meeting point for many enlightened people in the 18th century, including Goya.

El Capricho Park, Madrid

You should also explore the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando. Goya became director of Painting and honorary director of this Academy, where you can currently find a significant collection of 13 of his paintings, including “The Burial of the Sardine” and the “Portrait of Godoy”. The National Chalcography is also a part of this academy, and it houses the copper plates etched by Francisco de Goya, considered to be masterpieces in the universal history of engraving.More places in Madrid to delve into the history of this genius who, starting in 1789, became chamber painter to King Charles IV? It is known that his studio was on calle de Santiago (between Plaza Mayor square and the Royal Palace), and that the lost Quinta del Sordo (where he isolated himself and whose walls he covered with terrifying “black paintings”) was very close to the Segovia Bridge.

San Fernando Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Madrid

You will also find it very pleasant to walk through the San Isidro meadow, a public park that the artist painted several times, or through Príncipe Pío mountain. The latter is the setting for the dramatic painting of “The Third of May” and, today, is a beautiful park featuring the Egyptian Temple of Debod, the ideal location to gaze at unique sunsets.After the French occupation (1808-1813) and with the return of King Ferdinand VII, in 1824, Goya went into exile and died in Bordeaux. However, later, the artist's remains were transferred to Spain and have rested, since 1919, in Madrid, in the Chapel of San Antonio de la Florida. In addition to seeing the tombstone of the pantheon, here you can enjoy Goya's collection of paintings representing Saint Anthony's trance before the people of Lisbon. He created a surprising trompe l'oeil where the painted characters seem to actually be leaning out of the railing.

View of the Temple of Debod at sunset, Madrid

Where to see his works?

Madrid offers numerous spaces to discover and enjoy the beauty of his works.In terms of museums, you can't miss the Prado Museum, which houses the painter's main works such as “The Third of May”, “The Naked Maja”, “The Clothed Maja”, “The Family of Charles IV” or the “Black Paintings”. Walking through its rooms is a real pleasure and a unique opportunity to understand the development of the artist and his historical context. Nearby you can visit theThyssen-Bornemisza Museum, which showcases one of Goya's portraits of “Ferdinant VII” and the painting of “Uncle Paquete”.You can also visit the beautiful palace of the Museum of Romanticism, which features a monumental representation of Pope Saint Gregory the Great made by Goya, or the Lázaro Galdiano Museum. The beautiful house of this famous publisher preserves works as varied as “The Witches”, “Witches' Sabbath”, “Summer or The Threshing Floor” or “Penitent Magdalene”.

Exterior of the Prado Museum

Following the trail of the painter's works will lead you to discover Madrid and its palaces. In the city centre, you should visit the impressive Royal Palace: the largest in Western Europe. Here, you can discover the clothing of King Charles IV and Queen Maria Luisa of Parma thanks to Goya's works.Nearby is the Liria Palace from the 18th century, which preserves Goya's portraits of the Duchess of Alba and the Marquise of Lazán.On the outskirts of the city at the Royal Palace of El Pardo, currently the official residence of the heads of state who visit Spain, you can see five of the artist's best-known series such as “The Snowstorm”, “The Stilts” or “The Picnic”.

Royal Palace of El Pardo. El Pardo, Madrid

This unusual route can end back in the centre of Madrid, in the La Latina neighbourhood and specifically, in the Royal Basilica of San Francisco El Grande. You are bound to focus on its impressive dome: the largest in Spain and the fourth in Europe. For one of his chapels, Goya created the painting of Saint Bernardino of Siena preaching before Alfonso V of Aragon. It is said that the artist included a self-portrait looking at the viewer. Can you find him and say goodbye to this universal genius?

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